Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis. Malik Haqnawaz Danish 1, Ayesha Kousar 2

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1 Lyallpur Historical & Cultural Research Journal June 2017, Vol. 3, No. 1 [47-58] ISSN Print ISSN Online Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis Malik Haqnawaz Danish 1, Ayesha Kousar 2 Abstract This study aims to investigate, how advertisements work as a social phenomenon and is used to represent different cultural ideologies. This study will show deep understanding of visual advertisements. It will show the choice of specific fashion accessories, locations and color schemes used by advertiser to represent different ideologies and give different meanings to ads the research will be conducted by selecting different advertisements from Outfitter s summer and winter catalogue of It will explore how different factors in visual advertisements play an important role to give different meanings and make an advertisement inspiring and attractive to the consumers and promote the brand in unique way. It will also show how advertisements present different ideologies by designing a unique frame/location for ads, color scheme and selection of models to present a product and how these things are used to inspire the consumers to purchase it. This research will be conducted under multi-modal approach of social semiotics by Kress and Theo Van Leuween. Key Words: Social Semiotic, Underlying Ideologies, Visual Grammar, Multimodal Social Semiotic Analysis, Halliday s Three Metafunctions, Introduction Semiotics is generally defined as the interpretation of signs or symbols. It is closely related to the theories and the sign systems in linguistics. The meaning and structure of language are studied under semiotics. Semiotics or Semiology is a science that can be applied to all our activities such as history, architecture, medicine, politics, painting, theatre, dance, music and cinema to study the signs, symbols, metaphors and analogies, to investigate the representation of cultural and social aspects. A multitude of signs is also a part of everyday communication, as the gesture of nodding head connotes yes or shaking it side to side connote no. The pioneers of Semiotics brought it to the light as a science, and they believed that Semiology is the key by which they can unlock the meanings of all signs and symbols. As Chandler (2002) states that, there are two earliest proponents in the field of Semiotics, one is Charles Sanders Peirce (1839, 1914) the American philosopher and the second one is Ferdinand de Saussure (1857, 1913) the Swiss linguist, who believed that the mode of thought is Structuralism, and also a way to conceptualize the phenomena. The following are the three ways provided by Pierce in which he defines that how the signs and object are related to each other. 1 Lecturer, Government Postgraduate, College, Gojra, Pakistan 2 Lecturer, Riphah International University,Faisalabad, Pakistan

2 Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis 1. The resemblance or representation of the object (Icon) a photograph or image. 2. An icon s simple connection with the object (Index) a smoke signifies a fire. 3. The existence of conventional ties to the object is must (Symbol) a sindoor 3 reveals that the woman is married in India (Berger, 1984). According to Chandler (2002), a set of methods, terms and unifying conceptual framework is provided to us by semiotics to use it across the signifying practices that include postures, gestures, dress, speech, writing, photography, film, radio and television. As Barthes (1964) declears, the aim of semiology is to take any system of signs, whatever their limits and substance objects, gestures, images, musical sound and the complex combination of all these forms, the ritual for content or public entertainment. These constitute the systems of signification, if there is no language. While the semiology maintained by linguist Saussure was a science, in which signs are studied as a role of social life. Jwitt and Oyama define visual semiotics, a new field of study originated in 1990 s, and also involve the semiotic resource for the description, what images can communicate and done, and how the things can be interpreted, which people say and do. The visual s social semiotic analysis in print advertisements is presented in May, 2008 at the 58 th Annual International Conference of Communication Association by Cheung, M. & Cheung, C. at Montreal Canada, that semiotic is all about signs and describe how meanings generate through signs, and how these meanings are comprehended decoded by the people. Cultural myths are introduced by the advertisers in our society through their association with products. As Jonathan states in (as cited in Chandler, 20 02), in Analyzing Media Semiotics; An Introduction that, as a consumer we possess a product is a sign to possess cultural myths and also possess the social values for ourselves. Semiotics has been very helpful in the study of advertisements, to understand the overt and covert meanings coded in ads. We are living in the age of competition where advertisements play a vital role in society. The present research on advertisements will show that how advertisements are used to construct different ideologies and introduce new perspectives of fashion and modernism in a society. Problem Statement The Outfitters inculcates the foreign culture through the representation of products by hiring foreign models, they also use different themes, accessories and ideal locations in the advertisements, the main purpose of the research is to investigate, how the foreign culture inculcates in the advertisements of Outfitters as a Pakistani brand, Why the brand introducing the foreign culture in an Islamic society, where the cultural ideologies and social views are totally different. 3 A powdered form red pigment, applied as a dot on the parting of hair as a mark of married Hindu women.

3 Danish & Kousar Research Questions The research questions of my study are as follows, How do different styles present different social ideologies in Outfitters ads? How the uses of fashion accessories present different cultural views? Objectives of Research The study aims at following objects The objective of the research is to find out the hidden agenda of Outfitter s ads. The study will explore how advertiser/company designs the ads to achieve their specific goals. The main objective of this research is to provide a complete understanding of multimodal approach of the semiotic analysis for visual images in advertisements. Delimitations of Research 1. Research only focuses on the fashion advertisements of Outfitters Summer and winter catalogue. 2. Not all the images will be taken for the analysis of our research hypothesis; only three images will be selected. 3. Multimodal approach of semiotic analysis will be used for analysis of advertisements. Research is only conducted in the Pakistani context. Literature Review Semiotics, as Paddy Whannel states, tells us about a language which we never understand. It is very clear in the article, Bread is Life presented in Montreal, Canada in 2008 i at the 5 th conference of the international communication association, that semiotics is about how meanings decoded, comprehend and generated. 4 It is also mentioned in the article that signs are like sounds, words, images and objects etc., which are created and give different meanings, these signs have no meaning at all, as their own but given by readers as the signification is arbitrary. Saussure (1974, 1983) also states the same thing in other words, that metal does not fix the worth of a coin but, we as a meaning maker. It is also mentioned in the article according to the result of the work of Roland Barthes, that semiotics is becoming an approach to cultural studies in the late 1960 s, Barthes also declared in the article that Semiology aims to take in any systems of signs; images, objects, gestures, musical sounds and the complex association of all these (Barthes 1964, p. 9).Murphy (2007) mentions in an article Semiotics and Content Analysis; semiotics may be anything which can be applied to anything which can be seen as signifying something else. It is also mentioned 4 The metaphor of Bread is Life: A Semiotic analysis of visual representation in print advertisement designs the 58th Annual Conference of the international communication Association, Montreal, Canada. 49

4 Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis by Murphy that in the context of mass media, semiotics can be applied to unit of media newspaper articles, cartoons, films and advertisements both broadcast and print. Murphy (2007) also states that signs have three characteristics 1. A sign must have a physical form. 2. It should refer something else rather than its own self. 3. It must be recognized and used by people as significant. The book says that there is a clear distinction between Langue (Language) and Parole (speech) in a theory presented by Saussure. The systems of rules which are independent of individual users are referred to language while use of that system in particular stance is referred to people. Saussure and other structuralist mainly focus on Langue rather than Parole, In other words, the rules and underlying structures are more important than their use of more instances. According to Chandler, Umberto Eco relates the Saussure s and Peirce s traditions first and believes that semiosis and production of meaning is a social activity. In Daniel Chandler s book Semiotics-the basics Published in (2002), the importance of semiotics that reality is not a complete objective and have no dependence on perception of human it is taken for granted, but mainly it s a system of signs. The meanings of a sign are attributed by us through our thoughts and interpretations. As according to Peirce we think only in signs (as cited in Chandler, 2007). Signs become signs only when meanings are invested by us to them, they have no meaning as their own and they take the form of images, words, odors, sounds, acts, flavors or objects. Peirce declares that, Nothing is a sign unless it is interpreted as a sign (as cited in Chandler, 2007). If someone is referring or signifying something, that can be taken as a sign. Things as signs can be interpreted by us largely or unconsciously if we relate them to familiar systems of convention. This is known as the meaningful use of the signs which is considered as the heart of semiotics. Methodology The main purpose of this research is to explore the Outfitters Visual Semiotics. I use fashion advertisements, to begin with, as Berger (1978) & Myer (1986), state that in capitalist societies, the biggest naturalized phenomenon is advertising, where images and ideas are used to convey meanings and creates an idealized world for the consumers and they suppose to gain access to them through the exchange of money, and consumerism is also encouraged in such societies (as cited in Fowles, 1996). The notion of data is fashion advertisements of Outfitters. To justify the problem statement; I collected related images for analysis and testing the hypothesis. The criterion for the selection of images is explicit that images are selected on the basis of context. The present study is an exploratory qualitative research, because its main purpose is to explore the visual social semiotic through advertisements and to explore the technique and application of multimodal theory given by Kress and Theo Van Leuween with the reference of Halliday s three meta-functions of language in systemic functional grammar. Data collection for the research is

5 Danish & Kousar quantitative, as researcher will take the four catalogues of Summer/Winter collection of Outfitters from and a non-probability convenience sampling method will be used for the purpose of selection of images, the researcher will choose three most appropriate and related images from the catalogues for the study which fits the criteria of research topic, while on the other hand analysis of advertisements is purely qualitatively because of the application of multimodal theory of visual social semiotics. Theory of Visual Semiotics Kress and Van Leeuwen presented three meta functions of visual grammar with the reference of Halliday s systemic functional grammar. The three metafunctions are as follows: Ideational Metafunction Interpersonal Metafunction IntertextualMetafunction Ideational Metafunction In ideational meta function, Kress and Van Leeuwen recognize two main dynamics, Narrative and Conceptual. The participant s action and the act of doing an act depict are analyzed through narrative processes, while the general states of affairs are analyzed through conceptual processes. There are three sub-types of conceptual processes which are as follows; Classification Processes Analytical Processes Symbolic processes The classificational process is concerned about the taxonomies of existence of participants and about the role they play. There are two taxonomies in a classificational process, overt and covert taxonomies.the second type of conceptual process, the analytical processes establish through the part/whole relationship between the entities/participants in the image and also describe about the attribute referred to these entities or participants. The third type of conceptual processes, the symbolic processes as according to Kress and Leeuwen (1996), symbolic processes generally represent what the represented participant s means or also explore the ideologies and meanings.there are two types of symbolic processes; Symbolic attributive processes Symbolic suggestive processes Two kinds of participants are involved in symbolic attributive processes, the carrier and the symbolic attribute.according to the Kress & Van Leeuwen, Symbolic suggestive process has only one 51

6 Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis participant (the carrier) who bears on themselves the attributes according to an atmosphere in which they are inserted (Kress & Leeuwen 1996). Interpersonal Metafunction In interpersonal meta-function, the gazes or image act is studied on the basis of direct and indirect gaze in theory the direct gaze indicates a demand and the indirect gaze of the represented participants indicates an offer for the viewers.the intimacy and social distance is also analyzed in interpersonal meta-function. IntertextualMetafunction In intertextual level, the information value, salience and the frame-lines are analyzed in visual images. The information value can be analyzed through the placement of RPs in the image, Right/Left: the RP placed at the right side of the image indicate the value of given knowledge. While the RP on the left side of the image are New for the viewers. Top/Bottom: if the RPs are placed at the top of the image it gives the impression of being ideal, and if it is presented at the bottom or on ground then it indicates the impression of being real. Center/Margin: If RPs are placed at the center or margins of the image it indicates the RP as a source of information or the RP is the nucleus of information. Framing The frame-line around the image indicates about the RP s presentation, whether they are connected or separated from each other. Multimodal Analysis of Outfitter s ads Figure: 4.1Outfitters Spring/Summer 2014

7 Danish & Kousar Interpretation: In (Figure 4.1) a young boy stands in front of a white brick wall while having his hands in his pockets and wore half sleeves T-shirt, dark blue denim jeans with a leather belt around his waist and also an earring in his ear to present the Outfitters trendy clothes and accessories for Spring/Summer The facial expressions of boy are egoistic and arrogant. Ideational Metafunction The gaze of the RP used to create a vector in the image. The diverted gaze of the RP is indicates a hidden phenomenon. The participant is represented as also vector to present the brand s latest clothing collection. His standing style depicts an action of persuasion, whose goal is the attention of interactive participants. The image is the conceptual one and indicates an analytical process that participant is presenting brand s clothing and fashion accessories, which indicates a partwhole relationship of the participant with the wear accessories. The participant is the carrier of all these accessories and the accessories like shirt, denim and belt are the possessive attributes, not only these accessories are his possessive attributes, but also his skin color, facial expressions and hair style are also the possessive attributes. These possessive attributes also indicate something about the participant s social and cultural views. His facial expressions and body posture depict about his egoistic and arrogant nature. He has a trendy Pompadour hair style which indicates that he loves to follow the latest fashion trends and it also gives the impression of a proud nature of represented participant. The earning in his ear signifies about his believes on cultural myths or to make himself prominent and different from rest of the mass. His hands in pockets indicate his confidence. His body structure indicates that he is young and his strong muscles also indicate his physical fitness, these youthful attributes indicates his young energetic nature. These youthful attributes indicate about the participant s economic condition, social class and race that he is economically good; he belongs to an upper middle class family. Interpersonal Metafunction The gaze of the represented participant is within the image which indicates that there is an offer for the interactive participants in the image that whether they want to follow his lifestyle or not. The vector is captured at the level of waist up shot to create the impact of far personal distance between the RP and interactive participant. The oblique angle of RP detached him from the viewers that the viewers are not directly involved with him but the RP is one of them. As far as the power matter concern the RP is captured at medium angle to show that both (RP & Interactive participants) have equal status of power. 53

8 Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis Intertextual Metafunction: The salience is created by presenting RP in large size. He is sharply focused and foregrounded. His background is a white brick wall which has low salience as compared to RP who is fore grounded with bright color polo T-shirt and dark blue denim, which creates greater salience to capture the viewer s attention towards it. The higher tonal color contrast of boys clothing with the background give more Salience to the image. The RP is also placed at the right side of the image in front of a brick wall which suggests the image is real and the placement of RP on the right side suggests that the RP is new for the viewers in the sense of giving the information about the latest trends of boys fashion in summer. Figure: 4.2. Outfitters Fall/Winter 2014 Interpretation The above (Figure 4.2) Outfitter s advertisement from Fall/Winter 2014 collection presents a Western lifestyle. A girl in Western dressing wears a leather coat and tight denim, heaving open blond hair, sun glasses and bracelet on her right hand wrist. She is sitting on a vintage classic branded bike. Her sitting style is confident, she has placed right hand on right thigh and the left use to open her hair to give a relaxing look. Motorbike is used as a sign of virility. This also indicates her social class, race, economic background, and cultural beliefs.

9 Danish & Kousar Ideational Metafunction The sitting style of a girl and her act of opening hair creates a vector in the image. The RP is represented in the part-whole relationship. As a carrier of Outfitter s branded outfits and accessories which are her possessive attributes, not only representing the band, but her social class, culture, economic power and cultural beliefs too. Her overall look and wearing style of clothes indicate that she belongs to an elite class of society; her sitting style indicates she is confident, her style of opening the hair and relaxing herself also shows that she is not subordinate to anyone, but independent. The bike which she used is also branded and classic one, which indicates about her economic power and background that she is economically strong and belongs to an elite class of society who has their own views and beliefs about life they make their own rules, and give a message to follow them. The bike is used as a symbolic suggestive sign which indicates about the virile nature of the girl. Interpersonal Metafunction The RP s gaze is not directed towards the viewers, but within the image, which makes an offer for its viewers just to give the impression of following the latest trends of fashion and cultural beliefs. The RP is placed from the waist up position to give the impression of far personal distance, that she has a distance with the viewers at personal level. She is presented frontally to the viewers to show that RP is one of them and it also creates strong involvement of viewers with RP. The camera angle used to capture the RP is a medium which depicts that the RP and the viewers have equal status of power to accept or reject anything. IntertextualMetafunction The RP is placed in a large size which depicts an ideal and imaginary situation, the placement of RP on margin indicates that it is the center of information for viewers. All the information related to brand and fashion trends are expressed through RP and it is also the source of all the hidden information related to social and cultural beliefs. The background of the image is an outdoor area or a road which make the image real or mare close to reality. The RP s large size, dark color dressing and bike in the image creates a greater salience, it is also fore-grounded and more focused which involves the interactive participants and captures the attention of the interactive participants and it also creates more salience. Figure: 4.3 Outfitters Spring/Summer

10 Encoding Styles of Wearing Fashion Accessories in Outfitters: A Semiotic Analysis Interpretation A couple is shown in (Figure 4.3) on a sea sigh, both are young, healthy, and charming. They have white skin and golden brown hair. The girl is dressed up in Western outfit. She has bind hair on the top of her head, sunglasses on her eyes, gold chains around her neck and earrings in her ears. The boy wears a check line casual shirt with short jeans. He has some bands on his wrists and sunglasses on his eyes. Both are RPs are looking within the image. The girl is fore-grounded as compared to the boy. She is also placed at the right side of the image. The background is a sea which indicates a real life situation in the image. Ideational Metafunction The image is analytical and clearly presents the part/whole relationship of RPs with the possessive attributes. The RPs are the carriers of the attributes, while these attributes highlight some features of the brand to the viewers and also introduces the cultural ideologies and social values to the viewers. The fair skin of RPs indicates about their race, the costly branded costumes of the RPs, depicts about the economic and financial background of the RPs, it also indicates about their social class. The use of sunglasses is the sign of cultural views and ideologies; it is used as a symbolic suggestive process in the image which indicates about the social and cultural values of the RPs. They like to see everything according to their own ideologies. They love to be followed in every way not to be a follower, they like to be disparate. The use of gold chains and earrings is to attain viewer s attention towards the RP or it also used as a symbolic suggestive sign of social status and class in society. The locative circumstances are at sea sight which indicates a real life situation.

11 Danish & Kousar Interpersonal Metafunction The advertiser creates the RP s gaze within the image, just to make it an offer for the consumers. They are presenting a high class lifestyle in the ad, and introducing the new trends of fashion and lifestyle to the viewers and their diverted gaze indicates that they are offering these things and now it s up to the viewers whether they like to follow these trends or not. The female RP is presented at waist up position to elaborate the social distance of the RP with the viewers as she has a far personal distance from the viewers. The male RP is represented in the background, but with full figure heaving space around it, that indicates a far social distance of RP from the viewers. Both the RPs are captured at the frontal angle just to show that the RPs are one of us and it also indicates the greater involvement of the viewers with the RP. The medium camera angle is used in the image which implies the equal power status of the RPs and the viewers. Intertextual Metafunction The salience in the image is created through the sharply focused and close shot of the female RP. The RP is also illuminated in sunlight and presented very close to the viewers in a large size, which creates the greater salience to the image. The greater salience indicates the interest of the viewers in the image and it also implies that how much they are indulged in the image. Conclusion The findings of the analysis justify the research questions and also explore cultural ideologies and social views about life introduced by Outfitters. The Outfitters is a Pakistani brand whose concept is to introduce the fast fashion trends in society, but there are many things in advertisements used not only to introduce the latest fashion trends, but to narrate the standards of life in high society and it is also used to make the standard of the brand. The representation of physically fit, young and beautiful Caucasian models in the ads leaves a strong impression on viewers mind that they are independent, have standard and are followed by the high class of society, who have the power to rule, and the use of location in ads to present the RPs with the products give the impression of idealized lifestyle, free from all worries anxieties of the life. 57

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