A Window into Korean Culture

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1 A Window into Korean Culture Choi Joon-sik Ph.D. Proofreading and partial translation Sandra Choe

2 S e() u1 A Window into Korean Cu lture Copyright 2009 by Choi Joon-sik All Rights Reserved. No PaJt of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including infoimation storage and retrieval systems, without pelm ission in writing from the publisher. First Published 4'h March Author Choi Joon- sik Proofreading and partial translation Sandra Choe Publisher Shin Young- mi Company HER ONE MEDIA Address Room I 104, World Officetel, U nni-dong, Jongno-gu. Seoul, Korea Tel Fax website ISBN Price 25,000 won eip * Damaged books can be exchanged.

3 Contents Ack nowledgements 4 Preface 10 Chapter 1 I Seoul and the Life of Koreans Nature in the City, the City in Nature Looking at Seoul from Mt. Nam 31 The Pine Trees in Mt. Nam 31 A view of Seou l Mt. Nam through Fengshui 35 At the Former Site of Japanese Shinto Sh rine 47 Chapter 2 I A Voyage to Joseon on a Time Machine Understanding the Culture of the Royal Court Through the Daily Life of the King-Gyeongbok Palace 54 In Front of the Gyeongbok Pala ce 54 Entering the Pala ce 63 In Front of the Best Arch itectural Masterpiece of Joseon 64 In the Birthplace of Joseon Documentary Cu lture 69 A Day in the Life of the King 74 The King's Entertainment 81 6 S e 0 U

4 Sujeongjeon [S uj eong Hall]: The Birthplace of Ha nge ul 85 At the Scene of Korea's Tu r bu lent Modern History 88 Leaving Gyeongbok Pa lace In Search of Bukchon: Where Joseon' s High Officials Lived 95 Bukchon Yesterday and Today 95 What are characteristics of Korean Architecture? 97 Alleyways: Symbol of Bukchon The Most Nature-Friendly Palace in Northeast Asia Changdeok Palace and Huwon (Secret Gardenl. 115 Stand ing in front of Changdeok Pa lace 115 Changdeok Pa lace, Different from Gyeongbok Palace from the Entrance 117 In the Front Cou rtyard of Injeong Hall - thinking of the beau ty of Korean architecture 125 Build ings in Cha ngdeok Palace 137 Huwon [Rear Ga rdenl-the Most Bea utiful Garden in Korea 148 Leaving Changdeok Pa lace 169 7

5 Ch a pt e r 3 I Religious Relics that Have Shaped the Korean Mind Shamanism, the Eternal Melody that Moves Koreans to Dance: Going Up to Guksadang Shrine 175 In Search of Guksadang Shrine 177 Gut and Mudang [Shamanic Ritual and Shaman) 182 Ko rea ns and Shamanism 185 Passin g over Guksadang Shrine Where the Spirits of Kings Rest-Jongmyo 196 In Front of Jongmyo 197 Enterin g Jongmyo 201 Inside Jeongjeon [Mai n Hall! 207 Jongmyo Jerye and jeryeak Seonggyungwan-The Top Th ink Tank of Joseon 224 Becoming a Government Official in the Joseon Dynasty 224 Some Thoughts on the Na lure of True Education 226 Seonggyungwan 1 - At Daeseongjeon [Grand Hall! 230 Seo nggyungwan 2 - At Myeongryu nd ang [Th e Hall for Brightening the Ethics) 238 On Leaving Seonggyungwan e 0 U

6 4. Jogyesa-The Headquarters of Korean Buddhism 248 In Front of Jogyesa 248 In Frollt of Iljumun 252 Inside the Temple Grounds 255 Insid e the Beopdang 259 Outside the Beopdang 264 Who are the Monks? 270 Chapter 4 I A Night in Seoul-Insa-dong and Hongdae Where Tradition Still Breathes-Insa-dong 280 The Formation of Insa-dong 281 Wha t Shops Are in Insa-dong? 284 Leaving Insa -do ng Deviation from the Norm, Freedom, and Streets Full of Youthful Spark - Hongdae Area 295 Why Hongdae [Hongik Un ive rsityi? 299 Hongdae culture-alter native vs. Mainstream 301 Other Points of Attraction 314 Leaving the Hongdae Area 320 After Seeing Seou l 323 9

7 Seoul and the Life of Koreans.. -

8 Chapter 1

9 1. Nature in the City, the City in Nature We must first understand the guiding principles by which Seoul was created when attempting to understand Korean culture through Seoul. While location is a basic characteristic of capital cities regardless of East or West, Joseon in the East was particularly concerned with geomancy (Fengshui). Within Northeast Asia, China and Korea adhered to Fengshui principles when building palaces, but the latter w as undoubtedly more faithful in its application of Fengshui. This point becomes quite obvious with a comparison of the main palaces of both countries-gyeongbok Palace of Korea and the Forbidden City of China. A more detailed explanation will be provided later in this chapter, so let us keep in mind for now that both Seoul and Gyeongbok Palace were constructed after long deliberation and detailed planning in strict accordance to Fengshui principle. Fengshui is the guiding principle that determines the two most important sites for any person- the lot for a home, and the ground to be used for burial. It is certainly an important theoly because of its role in deciding the locations of living and dying. It would b e a huge undertaking to explain all the complex background principles of geomancy, but the basic underlying worldview is Simple- nature is not dead, but alive. According to Fengshui, there is an energy, Qi, that flows in nature the way it flows in the human body. A basic tenet of Chinese medicine, Qi,.the energy of life, flows in our body along special veins, 20 5 e 0 U

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