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1 Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Slide 1 THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE Check for updates on the web now! Slide 2 Map illustrating the spread of Renaissance ideas north from Italy. Click on the map to advance the spread. 2 Slide 3 vents contributed to the emerging power of these countries. Click to advance through the time line Philip II Ferdinand I William I of Orange, 1556 main leader of the Dutch revolt against Spain Charles V abdicates, dividing his territories 1519 between his son Philip (Spain, Low Countries, Charles V elected and the Holy New Roman World) and Emperor, his brother thus adding Ferdinand rights (Austria over Germany and the Holy and Reign Portuguese northern Henry of Elizabeth First Suleyman Martin Henry Death VIII Italy, European Spanish Luther s settlement dies of I Death to Henry Edward succeeds France Shakespeare Navarre his Death and Magnificent, lose contact rule debate of VIII Death his wracked Leonardo in of control becomes of Roman to son Macao brings Elizabeth Spain, with the of Edward begins Michelangelo throne with of Sultan Japan Mary the Empire) establishes da King the king I Vinci Roman religious writing of VI Tudor Low Dutch on by of Henry England succeeds the death in Portuguese Countries, plays France Catholic to Provinces contact Ottoman strife IV the of of Mary throne to France with Church the and sailors Empire, Tudor throne Chinese Austria begins

2 Slide 4 Phase 1: Similar to late middle ages in components. Shoes now round at the toe. Phase 2: : Wide, full, puffs, slashes, and panes. Phase 3: : Narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip. Trunk hose. 4 Slide 5 There was an early phase in which a transition was made from Medieval styles to the styles of the Renaissance (c ). 5 Slide 6 Doublet and hose laced together. 6

3 Slide 7 Jackets were worn with wide skirts called bases. 7 Slide 8 Over these men might wear loose robes or gowns. 8 Slide 9 The second phase concentrated in the second to the fourth decades of the century in which strong German influence can be seen (c ). 9

4 Slide 10 Shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide. 10 Slide 11 Men could choose between bases, and hose divided into sections called upper and nether stocks. The upper eventually appeared as a separate garment, called breeches or trunk hose. 11 Slide 12 Robes and gowns were still worn. 12

5 Slide 13 In the final phase, Spanish influences predominated (c ). 13 Slide 14 Doublets had narrower shoulders, and were worn with many types of trunk hose. Venetian Short Trunks Short trunks Short Trunks Breeches Venetian, French, attached German, to Spanish, fulllength hose length hose 1577 with canionsfrench, Burgundian, attached to full- 14 Slide 15 Doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly. 15

6 Slide 16 Capes, full and flaring were worn outdoors. 16 Slide 17 Phase 1: Transition from Middle Ages. Phase 2: : Spanish influenced change to petticoat and overdress. Phase 3: : Growth of skirt, supported by hoop called. 17 Slide 18 While the chemise continued as the undermost garment, women s underwear now took on the function of providing shape to the clothes Stays Busk Farthingale Bum Roll X Stay buried with Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea Sabine von Neuberg in 1598 Stay found on the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I. Dated 1602 Replica of Elizabethan Stay See More Click on Image to Advance to the next image. Bone, Wood, and Ivory Busks Busk is inserted down the center front of the Stay Farthingale with Stay Wheel Farthingale with Stay Click to see construction detail 18

7 Slide 19 The first phase of women s costume was a transition from the styles of the Medieval Period Wheel Farthingale with Stay 19 Slide 20 Gowns either worn as single garment or under and outer gown had long trains, which might be pinned up in back. 20 Slide 21 Variations in sleeve styles included: Smooth, narrow with decorative cuffs. Wide funnel shaped. Hanging sleeves. 21

8 Slide 22 Although costume of the 16 th Century had become more international with styles from one country or another often predominating, regional differences continued to exist. This is particularly evident in German women s styles of c Slide 23 Fitted bodices with low, square or rounded necklines. Softly gathered skirts with sleeves similar to Italian Renaissance styles of the late 1400s. 23 Slide 24 Hair was held in nets, hats were large and feathered, and large gold chains were important accessories. 24

9 Slide 25 During the second phase ( ), outside of Germany, costume for women was marked by Spanish influences. 25 Slide 26 Dresses were hourglass shaped, usually had square necks, flared skirts. The skirt was open in front to show the petticoat. 26 Slide 27 Sometimes women wore a loosely fitted overdress called a ropa. 27

10 Slide The first changes in the last quarter of the century came in the shape of the skirt, which started to grown wider at the top. 28 Slide 29 Skirts were held out by either a hoop structure or bum roll. 29 Slide 30 When supported by a hoop called a farthingale, skirts grew to extreme widths. 30

11 Slide 31 To balance the silhouette, hair was dressed high and collars stood up at the neck. 31 Slide 32 A sheer cape with a standing collar called a conch was worn with dresses. 32 Slide 33 Techniques for making lace developed in the 16 th Century, and lace was used in profusion as trimming and for wide ruffs, collars, and cuffs. 33

12 Slide 34 Some Popular Accessories for Men and Women Gloves Fans Hats and Head Coverings Shoes and Boots See more on shoes at the Metropolitan Museum of Art 34 Slide 35 y the end of the 16 th Century, Western History takes in not only Europe but the new world, the Western Hemisphere. 35 Slide 36 For Further Study Northern Renaissance Costume Time Lines Actual Costumes l Sumptuary Laws Puritan Comments On Dress Working Class Dress 36

13 Slide 37 For Further Study Putting On An Elizabethan Dress Elizabethan Costume Links 37 Slide 38 Image Credits Image of Suleyman the Magnificent, copyright 2005, Nagshbandi-Haggami, Suli Order of America. Woodcut of Michelangelo, courtesy of [ Image of Reproduction Busks, courtesy of the artist, Dave Hodgson for Ninya Mikhaila. Images of Farthingales, courtesy of [ July 13, 2005]. Replica of Effigy corset, courtesy of [ Image of Edwards Shoes, courtesy of the artist, Morgan Hubbard for Ninya Mikhaila. Replicas of Elizabethan Stays, courtesy of [ Images of Queen Elizabeth and lace collars, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection. Various images used courtesy of [ 7/26/05]; Dover Publications; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library; illustrations by Claire King; [ and [ 38

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