How to make Retractable Door Mirrors Automatic Open/Close for Volvo V
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- Octavia Wilcox
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1 How to make Retractable Door Mirrors Automatic Open/Close for Volvo V VER. 1.3 (electronic changed, C3 moved) 1. Why we did it? Because we did not want to spend 200 Euro for a product on the marked, which have a lot of other features which we do not need and to pay 200 Euro when you can do it for 5,-! 2. Yes maybe you can go to a dealer and he use Vida and program it, but we are not so sure if it can be done is this old model. And that would also cost more than 5,- Euro. 3. We will try to show how to make this with some small electronic components. 4. We do want to mention this solution we show is working with some limitation due to CCM do not read the Push Button s very fast. We could also have done it with a microprocessor and written a small program to take care of it, but as we know there is not so many out there with a Volvo V70 which have that knowledge and equipment home to program a microchip, so we did it for people who do have some electronic know how and have the capacity to assemble this small unit. 5. Before you start you should disconnect the (ground) from the Battery, just to be sure. 6. If you do not have this push button in your car you don t have Retractable Door Mirrors and you can t do this. To take out the Push Buttons you have to take out the plastic cover showing on the picture. Just start from one side and bend it out and it will slip from the plastic lockers. Then you pull out the Retractable Push Button.
2 To take apart the Switch you have to bend carefully first the 2 on the long sides and then the 2 on the short sides with a small tool. (Test pin from voltmeter, small screw driver) After you will have 3 parts. Then you solder in 2 cables 12 cm long as the picture shows. One goes to D5 and the other to D2. (On the pc board D2 and D4 are connected together, but D4 as component is not soldered in, so we used one side of D4. This is one side of the Membrane Switch which goes to PIN 12. Then you solder in 2 cables where the Lamp socket is. In our case as we had changed from Lamp to LED we could easily do that. If you still use Lamp you can take Power from the Cigarette Lighter. 0V + 12V The cables are not showing in the picture. But they shall be coming out on this side of the Push Button as you shall assemble the Push Button again, and then the cable will come out from the plastic part.
3 This is if you still would use the Original Lamp Then we made Half Moon Hole on the short side for the same cable as it have to be going partly 90 degrees to the Right. We made a Half Moon Hole on the long side for Cable to come out of the Push Button as it was difficult to assemble the Push Button without this. The cable is coming from the backside and up to the Left. Means when you put back the Push Button the cable will be out to the Right.
4 This is if you change the Original Lamp to LED Then you solder in 2 cables 12 cm long as the picture shows, one to D5 and the other to D2. (On the pc board D2 and D4 are connected together, but D4 as component is not soldered in, so we used one side of D4, be aware of the side of D5 and D4 the cable are soldered in to, on the picture Brown is soldered into the wrong side, it should have been the side where the arrow ends. D2/D4 is one side of the Membrane Switch which goes to PIN 12. You can also solder this one cable directly to PIN 12. (Behind the connector, does not show in the picture.) 0V + 12V Then you solder in 2 cables where the Lamp socket is. Or you can solder directly to PIN 2(+) and 1(0V). In our case as we had changed from Lamp to LED we could easily do that. After you have assembled the Push Button again it will look like this.
5 Then somebody may say, why not use only one cable as we are sending a Signal via a Transistor to operate the Mirrors. Yes we tried but we got problem that when the Transistor gave signal to the Mirrors the Push Button for Heat changed from Auto to Manual. And this has to do with we do not use the right Signal Ground (U Low) in our electronic as we take power from the LAMP socket. So we decided to make this with PC817 High Density Opto-Coupler then you also get the signals separated from each other which also have advantage. Else we had to get the Signal Ground (U Low) from other place and the unit would have been not that easy to take out as it is today as a separate unit. (PIN 12 could be U Low, but we have not checked.) With this way we also have some guarantee nothing will happens with the Electronic in the car. We also made a Switch (S1) which disconnects the Automatically Retracting function. Connect to this point. PC 817 To D5 PIN 7 Diod s are market with a and that is this side of the diod. (Cathode) To D4 ( D2 ) PIN 12 Note that we use PIN 12 to Emitter due to this is a probably (Signal Ground). (See drawing for Push Button further down in the document.) PC817. We did have some old PC board left over and we took one of them and modified it to this application and mostly because it would fit inside the plastic cover for the Push Buttons.
6 In the back of the CCM unit we put some thick rubber to be sure we would not get any short circuit to any other connections/components. The Power for +12V Key Pos (II) to Q2 we took during our test from the fuse box in the passenger compartment as it was the easiest way to get + 12V when the Key is in Pos II. The Fuse 20 was empty as we do not have any Transport Switch. For those who want to make it more advanced you will find somewhere to connect to +12V but it have to be +12V only in Key Pos. II for it to work. We also have in Ver. 1.2 put in an extra LED for indication of the signal to the Mirror.
7 Schema Electronic Signal to CCM On the PC817 there is a DOT indicating PIN-1 See sep. Picture R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 = 1K 1/8W, Key Pos. R8 = 4,7K 1/8W 0 I C3 = 1uF/35V (Delay for signal going from ) Q2, Q3 = BC337 or any small signal NPN transistor. OPTO = PC817 S1 =Switch (The component numbers is according to our Old PC board.) S1, Switch to disconnect Automatic Function in case it stops working. IGNITION KEY POSISTION Start Pos I = Mirror Unfolding Pos II = Mirror stays Unfolded Pos I = Mirror Retracting Stop
8 Probably in the connectors (6 of them): PIN 12 = U Low (Signal Ground) PIN 7 = Scanning Push Buttons with High Signal. PIN 8, 10, (also 5, 6, 9 and 11 as there are 6 connectors) Signal Which Push Button, read by CCM PIN 5, 6, 9, 11 is for: Switch, trunk lid/tailgate private lock (3/173) Auxiliary light switch (3/60) Spin control switch (3/95) Adjustable head restraint, rear (3/113) (And probably you can put in the Push Buttons anywhere as each key have separate address and the car will learn when you reset the car by lifting battery ground cable.) Some thoughts! We have also tried to look if we instead of Signal from Fuse 20 could use the Yellow Push Button on the Key sender. And it could be done as when you use the Yellow key all lamps Find me turns on and even the light inside the car. But the problem is CCM is without power and does not recognize any Push Button without Ignition ON. Only way would be temporarily give Power to CCM until the Mirror had retract/unfold, but we are not sure that would do it, maybe other electronic also have to have Power for CCM to work. To send the signal to the Relay for each Mirror is possible but then you have to take of the interior of each door to get to the Relay. The way we have solved this, it is small adjustment to the car and easily to go back to Original. Another way of doing it with Reley. You can replace the PC817 with a small Reley 12V DC.
9 How it works It is connected to 12 V DC Ignition ON due to CCM will not read the Push Button when the ignition is OFF and therefore the signal to the Mirror will only be working as mention below: (Note: CCM has no High priority to read the Normal Push Button, therefore it is very slow and because of this the mirror will sometimes unload/retract in wrong sequence, then you have to use the manually Push Button to adjust the mirror in the right position). The Power from the Lamp holder in the Push Button is connected to Rheostat and the power dips from 12V to 9V but that is not a problem. You can take the power from Cigarette Lighter if you want. We made it as showing from the lamp as we want to have as few cables as possible from the device and today it is only one cable coming from Fuse The system operates with the Position of the Key 2. Remember the first time you have to set your Key in pos. II retract manually the Mirror, move the Key to pos. 0. This for the Mirror to come in the right position. This with the S1 switch in 0. After you turn S1 switch to When you move the Key from 0 to I signal to Mirror will be sent to CCM. We has discovered that it works best when you just starts the car as normal and do not wait for the mirror to unfold. The Mirror will be unfolding when the Key is in position I or on the way to II and III. Because the power is dropping between Key II and III when the car starts the mirror will stop and continue when the car has started. (It has happened that the CCM did not read the signal and the mirror did not unfold, but after some day of testing this has only been happening 1 time after an update of the Electronic. If this happens you push the Manuel Button to unfold the mirror. When you then stop the car the mirror will be retracting.) 4. When you stop the car the Mirror will automatically retract when you move the Key from pos. II to I and then Next time you start it will be from pos. 3 again. 6. If the Mirror unfolding in wrong sequence you have to start from 2. If the Mirror will not operate when you have done this even you try with the Push Button, open the trunk disconnect 0 (ground) from the battery for a few sec. When you then open the key to position II the car will learn you have a Retractable Mirror. Press the Manuel Push Button to see if the Mirror works. If the Mirror will come out of Track or Sync you disconnect the battery, move the Mirror which are Retracted to Unfold position put back the battery cable and it should be ok again. We have after some testing discovered CCM when you starts the car does not always read the Push Button fast enough. We has moved the Electrolyte C3 to make a delay between Power up from Key 0 to pos I for the 0V signal to start High and then go Low from Fuse 20 as the signal should not come before CCM has been started up. There is still some problem with the CCM which do not read the Push Button fast enough. There also seems to be a learning process for the CCM, due to after a while when you have used this, it starts to work better. When you test with the normal manual Push Button CCM is reading the Push Button and after a while the mirror unfolds. This means CCM read and remember, but does not do at once the operation. Any questions pls. send to smed@nasab.com (special machines electronic department) and we will see if we can help you. You can also check out our web site where you maybe will find some more interesting tricks. We do not take any responsibility for any wrong doing and it is up to Everyone to make the decision if they should make this or not. Good Luck!
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