Introduction Part 1. Evaluating Color Color Communication/Terms Colorist Qualifications Color Equipment/Instruments Specifications/Settings Light sources Tolerances Part 2. Lab Dip/Bulk Development Swatch submission Identifying submits Approvals and bulk development Submission Forms Part 3. Lab dip & Bulk communication J.Crewimports Communication JCrew Color Language Glossary terms/definitions
Introduction J.Crew is dedicated in providing our customers a product of high quality and style as well as color. It begins with our Design team creatively developing a palette which is translated by our Color Library for color development. Along with our mills and vendors there is a continues development process that our Design, Fabric, Production and Technical Color Lab are involved in. The end result is a product that is reflective of our Design Team s original color concept. We have created specific guide lines to ensure that our color evaluation process flows consistently and smoothly through all development channels. Part 1. Evaluating Color J.Crew evaluates color visually with the support of a spectrophotometer. Color Communication/Terms What is Color? Color is not a physical reality. Color is an interpretation by the cortex of sensations that your eye detects. Color differs from one person to the other. Color is a result of a physical, physiological and a psychological observance which can be analyzed visually as well as by numerical measurements called Colorimetry. Visually- Light is what influences the eye and then the object. When we visually interpret color we use 3 characteristics to determine color. The Hue, the saturation level (purity) and its lightness. All three values describe a unique color. The Hue- (H) shade or cast of color. It is the attribute of visual sensation which leads us to color names - violets, blues, greens, yellows, oranges, reds, purples, etc. Saturation-(C) chrome-it is the evaluation of the depth of pure color. This is independent of hue and it represents a radius of a color circle. Lightness- (L) value of light or dark. It is a attribute of how much light is reflected or absorbed.
Colorist Qualifications: The Munsell Color Evaluating Test should be administered to Technical Colorist. This is to ensure that the technical colorist is able to identify color at excel levels. The Munsell test is a unique standardized test which is recognized internationally as a test in identifying color in a balanced harmony. This test is to be performed in a Light box which is blocked from any light source interference. Color Evaluating Equipment/Instruments: A. Light boxes/ Light Cabinets B. Spectrophotometer C. Conditioning Box A. Light box/light Cabinets Light boxes also known as Light cabinets are cabinets which are designed to evaluate color visually. J.Crew uses the Greytag Macbeth Light boxes. When evaluating color, there is to be no additional light source obstructing the light box. The light box must be placed in a dark room or a curtain can be used to block-out light. Curtain must be a solid medium weight twill and of solid neutral grey coloring. Light boxes are to be serviced yearly to ensure proper function of cabinet and bulbs by an authorized specialist. Example: Proper use of Light box Image a. Incorrect viewing. Images b & c. Correct viewing. a. b. c.
B. Spectrophotometer: To evaluate color using numerical measurements JCrew uses the Datacolor Spectrophotometer. The spectrophotometer analyzes the light energy that is reflected or absorbed by the color standard. It provides us with a color graph of how color is being evaluated as well as numerical reading of the Hue, Saturation and Light for each color standard. The spectrophotometer is a reliable scientific tool in assisting color analyzing. JCrew uses the support of the spectrophotometer when evaluate colors for woven fabrics and knits. Settings for the Spectrophotometer: 1. Use the Large area view (LAV 30mm) plate to measure samples. See Image a and b. 2. Set UV filter to UV 0% 3. The spectrophotometer must be calibrated when doing color readings. Failure to do so will effect color readings. How to measure/read color: 1. Sample must be at least a 2x2 swatch. Ensure that the sample covers the aperture. See Image c. 2. Take 4 measurements of the swatch by rotating 90 degrees. These measurements will be automatically calculated by the Cooltools program. Example: a. b. c.
C. Conditioning Box: When using the spectrophotometer color standards are to be conditioned in the conditioning box 30mins. prior to analyzing the standard in the spectrophotometer. This helps to stabilize the color from moisture present by the temperature in the room. The temperature will affect how color is measured. The conditioning box should be no more than 5ft from the spectrophotometer. The temperature difference of 10 degrees will cause the color to change for some colors in de of 1.0 or more and it is important that conditioning samples is done properly. Settings for the Conditioning Box: 1. Temperature: 69.8 degrees Fahrenheit +- 2 degrees ( 21 degrees Celsius +- 2 degrees) 2. Humidity: 50% +- 15% 3. The spectrophotometer as well as the conditioning box should be serviced yearly by an authorized specialist. Example: Office Layout and Settings Image a. Proper layout of conditioning box and spectrophotometer. Image b. Proper conditioning box settings. Image c. Incorrect conditioning setting. a. b. c. Light source for Light boxes and Spectrophotometer J.Crew s Primary light source is D65.
J.Crew's Secondary light source is IncA Tolerances Bulk development is 1.0 de from lab dip approval unless instructed differently by JCrew Technical Colorist. Part 2. Lab Dip & Bulk Development The following is to be applied to all categories below. J.Crew Women's- wovens, sweaters and knits J.Crew Men's-wovens, sweaters and knits J.Crew Crewcuts & Baby-wovens, sweaters and knits J.Crew Factory Men's & Women's- wovens, sweaters and knits Madewell- wovens, sweaters and knits JCrew Production Associates will send out original color standards to mill and factories for color development. Spectrophotometer QTX files will be sent by the technical color team to Production Associates to email to mills/vendors. Not all color standards have a spectrophotometer reading which will require the mill /factories to use the original color standard for development. Once lab dip development begins all lab dips and bulk development submits must be sent to J.Crew Production Associates/ Madewell Production Associates to pass to Technical Colorist for color evaluating. J.Crew/Madewell submission forms must be used at all times by the vendor and mill. Swatch submission: 1. Lab dips are to be a minimum of 2x2 swatch size. 2. Bulk submits must be a minimum of 8x10 swatch size. 3. All Swatches must be face side up, same directional weave. a. Velvets must be viewed with nap up unless directed differently by J.Crew colorist. b. Corduroy must be reviewed with nap up for Women s, Crewcuts and Factory unless specified specifically by J.Crew colorist.
Corduroy for Men s, Crewcuts and Factory nap down unless specified specifically by J.Crew colorist. 4. Swatches must be free of creases and wrinkles. Submits must be mounted using adhesive. No staples or pins. 5. When viewing lab dips or bulk lots the surface of the light box must be clear of any unnecessary objects. 6. Viewing swatches in the light box must be on a flat surface. Identifying submits: 1. Lab Dips and Bulk must be labeled properly to identify each submit clearly. 2. 1st set of submits must be labeled by letters A-C or numerically 1-3 3. 2nd set of submits must be labeled by letters D-F or numerically 4-6 etc. 4. Bulk lots submitted from the mill are to be labeled by letters A, B, C, D etc. 5. Bulk lots from Factories will need to add a number after each letter code that is received from the mill. Example: Lot A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3 etc. 6. Rolls within Lots are to be identified by Lot# and roll #. Example: Lot A1 rolls 1-6. Example: Image a. Viewing under correct light source, placement of swatches, lab dip and bulk submissions. A. Approvals for Lab Dips and Bulk. Once a lab dip approval has been made by our technical colorist, mill/factory may proceed with bulk development. Bulk development is not to occur unless a lab dip approval or an assortment approval has been made by J.Crew. Bulk is to match lab dip approval within a tolerance of 1.0 de. A spectrophotometer reading is to be provided by the mill/factory of a failing bulk lot.
Spectrophotometer report is to include graph and de analysis. Final approval is made visually by JCrew teams. Example: Failed bulk and report. Image a. Visual fail of bulk lot against lab dip approval. Image b. Conditioning failed bulk lot. a. b. Image c. Spectrophotometer reading. c.
d. Submission Forms A. Lab Dip Forms- J.Crew, Factory and Madewell B. Bulk Lot Forms-J.Crew, Factory and Madewell
Part 3. jcrewimports.com Communication J.Crew's website jcrewimports.com is used to communicate color evaluation comments between Vendors, Mills, NY reps and Associates. It enables all to communicate efficiently and effectively. All business associates are provided with a username and password for access. Allow 24hrs-48hrs before viewing color comments on jcrewimports.com once they have been received by J.Crew color teams. All urgent submits are reviewed and commented on same day they are received. See jcrewimports.com for more details on how to use. J.Crew Color Language: J.Crew uses percentage values when evaluating color. Using percentage values is clearer communication of the direction in which the color needs to be corrected. Example: Value- (L)-5-10% darker or lighter from the standard. Chrome (C )-5-10% brighter, cleaner etc from the standard. Hue- (H)- 5-10% more red, yellow, blue or green from the standard. *Refer to JCrew Lab Dip Submit form for more details.
Glossary Terms/definitions: Approval Date- Date color must be approved. A/W-After wash. B/W-Before wash. Chrome- (C) Less or more saturation, brightness, cleaner etc. from the standard. Color Description- Indicate if color name was revised/ renamed. Color Palette- Color standard which is on the J.Crew palette for the season. Comment Date- Date color was evaluated. Country- Indicate country of origin. C&P Bulk- Correct and Proceed for bulk development. D#- Development number. Dropped-Color is not being developed. Fabric Content- Content of quality and mill reference code. G/D-Garment dyed. Hue- (H)- Less or more red, yellow, blue or green from the standard. Off- Palette color/ O/P color- Color is not found on the original J.Crew palette. Ok Bulk- Approved for bulk development. Ok Bulk/Rejected- Approved for bulk and some lots were rejected with comments. Pending- Color is being evaluated further. P/D-Piece dyed. Results-Color evaluation assessment. Rejected- Color has failed. S#- Style number. Swatch- Identify lab dip submit.
Submit Date- Date lab dips are submitted from mill/factory. Value-Lightness- (L) darker or lighter from the standard.