PERFUMES ART, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

PERFUMES ART, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

PERFUMES ART, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY Edited by P. M. MÜLLER and D. LAMPARSKY Givaudan Research Company Ltd, CH-8600 Dübendorf, Zürich, Switzerland Springer-Science+Business Media, B.V.

First edition 1991 Reprinted 1994 1994 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht Originally published by Blackie Academic & Professional in 1994 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 1994 ISBN 978-94-010-5701-1 Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the UK Copyright Designs and Patents Act, 1988, this publication may not be reproduced, stored, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in writing of the publishers, or in the case of reprographic reproduction only in accordance with the terms of the licences issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency in the UK, or in accordance with the terms of licences issued by the appropriate Reproduction Rights Organization outside the UK. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the terms stated here should be sent to the publishers at the Glasgow address printed on this page. The publisher makes no representation, express or implied, with regard to the accuracy of the information contained in this book and cannot accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Perfumes: art, science, and technology/edited by P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index ISBN 978-94-010-5701-1 ISBN 978-94-011-3826-0 (ebook) DOI 10.1007/978-94-011-3826-0 1. Perfumes. I. Müller, P. M. (Peter M.) II. Lamparsky, D. (Dietmar) TP983.P365 1991 668'.54 dc20 90-14076 CIP

Preface The idea of publishing this book on Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology grew out of the observation that, on the verge of the 1990s, there was really no state-of-the-art compilation of the relevant know-how on which the fragrance industry is based. It was obvious that such a compilation would be well received, not only by perfumers and fragrance chemists, but also by those involved in related trade and marketing or in the development and distribution of consumer products, by researchers from other fields, by students and, finally, by amateurs of perfumes in general. Therefore, we set out to find competent authors who were willing to contribute to the endeavour, and we did not do this unselfishly; on the contrary, we selected a wish-list of specialists who would provide us with new insight and characterize the trends and research priorities determining the future. Thus, we were counting on learning much ourselves in the course of the project. We were more than pleasantly surprised by the reactions to our first letter-and so was Elsevier. We certainly had not expected perfumers who are usually much more 'doers' than 'writers' to react in such an enthusiastic way; especially, the spontaneous affirmative answer from the famous E. Roudnitska created a momentum which contributed significantly to the successful completion of this book. But, of course, we should not create the impression that the other authors' chapters are less important, and we thank all of them heartily for their invaluable effort. The reader who is just glancing quickly at the different chapters might come to the conclusion that this is a rather inhomogeneous book. Chapters which are loaded with literature citations are followed by chapters with none, and even the language changes: one is taken from philosophical perfection to economical bluntness, from artistic non-conformism to scientific heaviness. However, this is not a disadvantage; rather, it underlines the diversity and the fascination of the topic which, after all, is the motivation for those active in the field to dedicate their life to the study of odorants or odours. The chapters of the book can be read individually, and they all contain a short introduction which sets the stage. It is also possible, however, to read the book as a whole, and the reader who does this will find that its structure has a certain logic. Thus, we hope that the readers who are 'smelling analytically' or reading single chapters enjoy this book as much as those who are 'approaching the composition as a whole'. v

VI PREFACE We want to conclude this preface by thanking the publishing house, as well as Givaudan. The encouragement and generous support of the latter were important elements for the task. Peter M. Muller Dietmar Lamparsky Dubendorf, June 1990 NOTE ON THE USE OF TRADEMARKS The use of trademarks in this book does not constitute unreasonable use of these n a m e s - though ~ w ethey n may not everywhere be indicated by the symbol @' Tradenames, especially of perfumes, can be used to designate either the actual product in question or a type of product or family of products not identical with the named original.

Contents Preface.... Part I: PERFUMERY AS AN ART Chapter 1: The Art of Perfumery E. ROUDNITSKA v 3 Part II: PERFUMERY AS A TOPIC IN LIFE SCIENCES Chapter 2: Odours and Perfumes as a System of Signs.. J. S. JELLINEK Chapter 3: Semiochemicals: Mevalogenins in Systems of Chemical Communication...... 61 W. FRANCKE Chapter 4: Origin of Natural Odorants. 101 R. CROTEAU & F. KARP Chapter 5: A Consideration of Some Psychological and Physiological Mechanisms of Odor Perception........... 127 A. N. GILBERT & M. R. KARE+ 51 Part III: TRAPPING AND MEASURING OF ODOURS Chapter 6: The Measuring of Odors............... 153 Chapter 7: N. NEUNER-JEHLE & F. ETZWEILER Trapping, Investigation and Reconstitution of Flower Scents....................... 213 R. KAISER Part IV: CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURS Chapter 8: Empirical Classification of Odours. 253 Chapter 9: M. THIBOUD Chemical Classification and Structure-Odour Relationships........................ 287 G. OHLOFF, B. WINTER & C. FEHR vii

viii CONTENTS Part V: COMPOSITORY TECHNIQUES AND APPLICATION SEGMENTS Chapter 10: Creative Perfumery: Composition Techniques. J.-C. ELLENA Chapter 11: Support Materials for Odorant Mixtures... B. STRESCHNAK Chapter 12: Perfumery Applications: Functional Products. J. K. FUNESTI Chapter 13: The Impact of Market Research....... J. S. JELLINEK 333 347 363 383 Part VI: PRODUCTION OF PERFUMES Chapter 14: The Chemistry of Synthetic Raw Materials Production. 399 J. DORSKY Chapter 15: Compounding............. 421 A. BOECK & H.-U. FERGEN Chapter 16: The Toxicology and Safety of Fragrances. 441 R. A. FORD Chapter 17: The Fragrance Industry in a Changing World. 465 M. MANOWITZ & R. E. NAIPAWER Part VII: TOPICS IN PERFUMERY RESEARCH Chapter 18: Receptors: Current Status and Future Directions 481 F. L. MARGOLIS & T. V. GETCHELL Chapter 19: Natural Products.... 499 M. PETRZILKA & C. EHRET Chapter 20: Synthetic Products.... 533 G. FRATER & D. LAMPARSKY Outlook................ 629 P. M. MULLER List of Contributors 637 Index.............................. 643