Mitsubishi WS-55859: Changing out your capacitors when your set will not Turn On, the "Green Light is Flashing" and it won't give you an Error Code. Taken From http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186 thank you Don ;-) Note: When you view your capacitors for the first, They will not appear to be damaged or puffy. This message board and *************** just saved me either $1000.00 or $4500.00. To all the contributors who posted photos and instructions on the dreaded "flashing green light" T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U! As of Firday night. I had the TV re-assembled (with new capacitors installed) and I had almost conceded and given up. When I plugged the TV back in I had no power and no flashing green light. NOTHING. I've spent the rest of weekend using CNET.com to read reviews on the editor's choice awards for plasma sets and wondering how I'd pay for a 52" - 1080p Plasma. Sunday I took the TV apart (not wanting to give up) all the way down to removing the brand new capacitors. Desoldered them, took them out and started all over again. This time when I plugged the power cord in I instantly heard juice go through the set. Walked around to the front and...omg I had a flashing green light. In about 30 seonds the green light went out. THE MOMENT OF TRUTH! I pushed the power knob on the front of the set AND... BAM -I got a picture. The WS-55859 has 7 capacitors instead of the "four" that have been mentioned here, on other Mitsubishi sets. They are mounted on a 4" square daughter board inside the DM Module shielded case. Total cost of the repairs were around $105.00. Seventy five dollars of that came from a universal arm style light that has a big round magnifying glass. http://www.mouser.com/search/productdetail.aspx?r=140-htrl16v1000 get capacitors here 8-1000uf 16v 105C Capacitors 1 - Magnifying Lamp 1 - Weller Soldering Iron 1 -.075" Width (Pro Wick Desoldering Braid) Size #3
1 - ROSIN CORE SOLDER INSTRUCTIONS: (EXPLAINED LIKE YOU HAVE NO SOLDERING EXPERIENCE) I had never desoldered a circuit board in my life. On my own I finally figured out if you place the desolder braid flat on the board next to the pin (you want to desolder) place the tip of your iron directly on the desolder braid and not directly on the solder. You can briefly touch the solder just to get the wick action started. Have the desolder braid touching the base of the mound of solder your wanting to remove. Press your iron directly onto the braid with the braid barely touching the mound of solder. When iron is hot enough you will see the braid begin to suck the melting solder like a wick. When placing the solder on the new pins you need a third hand to hold the capacitors snuggly against the circuit board. To do this, I placed the capacitor in place with the two pins sticking through the board. I grabbed one pin with a set of surgical hemistats. Because hemistats are slightly arched, it allows the hemistats to grab one pin and the other clearly visible to solder while the hemistats hold the capacitor in place. Allow it to cool, remove the hemistats and repeat the process till all capacitors are in place. A TIP ON SOLDERING: On your first drip of solder onto each pin, make sure it's as tiny as possible. VERY TINY! Get it on the pin and set the solder supply to the side. Work that tiny drip with the tip of your iron. You want to work that first drip and get it to suck into the hole of the circuit board around the capacitor's pin. I didn't pay special attention to this on my first pass and my drips were to large. This can lead to loose pins and loose capacitors. The only way to get solder deep into the hole the pins are sticking through is use a very tiny amount of solder. While your DM Module is completely out and laying on a slightly elevated surface. (I used a plano fishing tackle box) Observe the bottom plastic guide that the DM Module rest in. Toward the outer edge of the TV's back, you will see a narrow slot in the plastic guide. In my photos I refer to it as a plastic receptacle. Now pick up the faceplate you have removed from the DM Module. At the bottom of the faceplate is a shark fin shaped piece of the faceplate. Make sure that lines up and slides back into the the plastic guide properly.
If you don't...your DM Module will seem to not want to slide back in properly. It also acts as a guide to make a copper contact strip to engage properly with proper surface contact. Removing the DM Module is only slightly tricky. Because your not going to disconnect any wire connectors from any of the circuit boards. The wire bundles leaving the DM Module have just so much length and will not allow you to slide the DM Module out. So there is a work around to get the DM Module out. IN my photos, I show you how to rotate the DM Module "in place" and rotating it out of it's resting place. Above the DM Module is the upper plastic guide that prevents you from doing this rotate "in place" maneuver. The upper plastic guide must be removed by removing two screws. To get to these screws, just above the plastic guide is a inner wooden shelf that is laying in the TV horizontally. I removed four screws holding it inside the TV's case, and then removed the wooden shelf. (see photos). Now you can easily remove the upper plastic guide. STEP BY STEP GUIDE WITH PHOTOS: STEP 1) The DM Module loose. But it can't be rotate out because of the upper plastic guide.
STEP 2) How the DM Module is rotated out of the TV case. Allow the wires entering the DM Module to be an axis point of the rotation. That way they barely move and don't get snagged or stretched.
STEP 3) The DM Module out and the side cover of the metal housing removed.
STEP 4) My setup to do the soldering work.
STEP 5) Up Close of the daughter board and the seven capacitors on Mits WS-55859.
STEP 6) The daughter board unscrewed and flipped over where you will be soldering.
STEP 7) The Upper Plastic Guide that must be removed to rotate the DM Module out of the TV set.
STEP 8) Get this wooden horizontal shelf out (4 screws) and getting the upper plastic guide out becomes easy.
STEP 9) Helpful Hint about the wooden shelf and the platic guide that both need to be removed. When I put it all back together and plugged the TV in, I heard the juice surge through the TV. Went around to the front and my green light was flashing. It flashed for about 30 seconds. It then when out. I hit the power and the TV came to life. I found myself very fortunate that I found answers on here, and I ve never soldered a single circuit board in my life. Mitsubishi...You still suck major donkey D&^%#S. My next TV will be either Pioneer, Sony or Panasonic. I've been very disappointed with the two Mits tv's that I've purchased. One broke when it was 6 months old. I don't care what the new standard of "quality" is.
My philosophy is... I buy a TV...let's say from TWEETER and it's a Mitsubishi.