Dual extruder upgrade manual addendum to assembly manual This manual is intended for users that have bought the kit WITH a new printer. For user that already have their printer assembled and working, please skip to page 7. Kit contents for EG-1 (+) upgrade kit 1x Top plate for SMART LCD 2x Junction plate for Bowden extruder 1x LCD back plate 1x SMART LCD 1x ZRIB main control board 1x Bowden extruder 1x Push-connect M6 connector 2x LCD ribbon cable 1x Stepper motor cable 2x Bowden tube 1x Dual extruder assembly 1x Fastener bag
Kit contents for EG-2 upgrade kit 1x Bowden extruder 1x Push-connect M6 connector 1x Stepper motor cable 2x Bowden tube 1x Dual extruder assembly 1x Fastener bag 2
Assembly instructions for EG-1 (+) Open or print the standard assembly manual found here: Assembly manual for EG-1 (+) This addendum is to be used along the standard manual. It replaces some steps and adds important information to others. Please remove theses parts from your standard EG-1 (+) kit: 1x Top plate for LCD (keypad version) 2x Junction plate 1x LCD assembly (complete) 1x MELZI main control board 1x LCD ribbon cable 1x limit switch harnest (small) You will need to remove the extruder and stepper motor from the stock extruder assembly. 1. First remove the two screws UNDER the extruder assembly (near the hot-end/nozzle). 2. Then loosen the nut locking the hot-end/nozzle in place. This will let you unscrew the hotend/nozzle from the extruder body. 3. Finally, install the push-connect M6 connector from the kit in place of the hot-end/nozzle on the extruder body. You should now have two identical extruder assemblies (one is supplied in the upgrade kit). The remaining parts of the stock assembly are not needed and can be set aside with the parts mentioned above. Follow the standard instruction manual, replacing the parts you removed from the standard kit with the ones included in the upgrade kit. STEP 6 If you have chosen the auto-level option, install the sensor on the RIGHT side of the assembly. There are two threaded holes in the steel extruder frame. Use the top holes if you are using an aluminium bed (stock from the kit). Use the bottom holes if you have a glass bed installed. STEP 10 and STEP 11 Install the parts from the upgrade kit (Top plate, junction plate (2), LCD and LCD support plate). 3
You should also install the TWO extruders under the junction plates, with the push-connect M6 connector pointing UP though the hole in the junction plate. STEP 12 If you have the auto-level option in your kit, you can skip this step entirely. The Z-limit switch is replaced with the sensor installed on the extruder assembly at STEP 6. STEP 14 You will notice that the new ZRIB main control board is not the same shape as the MELZI main control board included in your standard kit. The frame side plates already have the correct holes for both the ZRIB and MELZI main control boards. Simply install the screws using the correct mounting holes at the bottom and install the ZRIB main control board instead. STEP 20 On this step, DO NOT install the X-limit switch. You will notice that there is one already on the extruder assembly. STEP 22 Refer to the diagram at the END of this document for correct wiring for your dual-extruder printer. 4
Assembly instructions for EG-2 ZRIB Open or print the standard assembly manual found here: Assembly manual for EG-2 This addendum is to be used along the standard manual. It replaces some steps and adds important information to others. Please remove theses parts from your standard EG-2 kit: 1x limit switch harnest (small) You will need to remove the extruder and stepper motor from the stock extruder assembly. 4. First remove the two screws UNDER the extruder assembly (near the hot-end/nozzle). 5. Then loosen the nut locking the hot-end/nozzle in place. This will let you unscrew the hotend/nozzle from the extruder body. 6. Finally, install the push-connect M6 connector from the kit in place of the hot-end/nozzle on the extruder body. You should now have two identical extruder assemblies (one is supplied in the upgrade kit). The remaining parts of the stock assembly are not needed and can be set aside with the parts mentioned above. Follow the standard instruction manual, replacing the parts you removed from the standard kit with the ones included in the upgrade kit. STEP 6 If you have chosen the auto-level option, install the sensor on the RIGHT side of the assembly. There are two threaded holes in the steel extruder frame. Use the top holes if you are using an aluminium bed (stock from the kit). Use the bottom holes if you have a glass bed installed. STEP 10 Also install the TWO extruders under the junction plates, using ONE M3x15 screw (included in the upgrade kit). The push-connect M6 connector should be pointing UP, behind the junction plate. Tighten the extruder VERY WELL as there is only ONE screw holding it in place. It is recommended to add some thread-locking compound to the screw to prevent any movement. 5
STEP 12 If you have the auto-level option in your kit, you can skip this step entirely. The Z-limit switch is replaced with the sensor installed on the extruder assembly at STEP 6. STEP 20 On this step, DO NOT install the X-limit switch. You will notice that there is one already on the extruder assembly. STEP 22 Refer to the diagram at the END of this document for correct wiring for your dual-extruder printer. 6
Upgrade instructions for pre-built printers If you have purchased this dual kit for EG-1 (+), you don t need to take everything apart to install the upgrade. Simply REMOVE the parts and modify your stock extruder assembly as described on page 3. Also remove the X-limit switch from the left X-Motor printed part. It s not needed as there is one on the new dual-extruder assembly. REPLACE any removed part with the one in the kit. Don t forget to move your auto-level sensor if you had it installed on your printer. Finally, follow the wiring diagram at the end of this document for correct wiring of your dualextruder printer. If you have purchased this dual kit for EG-2, you don t need to take everything apart to install the upgrade. Simply REMOVE the extruder assembly from the horizontal carrier, and modify it as described on page 5. Also remove the X-limit switch from the left X-Motor printed part. It s not needed as there is one on the new dual-extruder assembly. REPLACE with the complete assembly from the upgrade kit. Don t forget to move your autolevel sensor if you had it installed on your printer. Finally, follow the wiring diagram at the end of this document for correct wiring of your dualextruder printer. 7
ZRIB main control board wiring Both the EG-1 (+) and EG-2 use the same wiring diagram when upgraded to dual-extruder. Please be careful about the temperature sensor/head heater/stepper combination when plugging them. Extruder 0 (E0) is the LEFT extruder on the printer and is considered the MASTER. There are no offsets for this extruder Extruder 1 (E1) is the RIGHT extruder on the printer and is considered SLAVE. You will program the offsets for this extruder in the firmware ONLY, not in the control software. 8
Firmware calibration If you purchased this kit, it is assumed that you know how to modify and upload a new firmware to your main control board. You will find the base configuration for this dual-extruder kit on our website 3dprintertutorial.org There are a few settings that will need to be adjusted in order to have a successful print: The ZRIB main control board is recognized by Arduino IDE as an Arduino MEGA 2560. The standard baud rate is correct for uploading to your ZRIB main control board. You need to first calibrate your printer s settings as if it was a single extruder printer (using the LEFT extruder only). In configuration.h: #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS X.X You need to adjust this value according to the distance of your LEFT nozzle from the bed when you home your Z-axis Refer to the tuning and first-print instructions found on our website 3dprintertutorial.org for this section. When you can print reliably with your LEFT nozzle, it s time to adjust the RIGHT nozzle. To do this, you need to print the parts calibration_circle_a.stl and calibration_circle_b.stl. It is VERY recommended that you print them using different colors of the same material. We have also included the file dual_calibration.gcode already sliced and ready for SD printing. Make sure that you CENTER both parts if you want to slice them yourself. Most control software and slicer software will give you an error when trying to slice, just ignore or let it continue (in Repetier HOST, you need to click NO to continue). In configuration.h: #define HOTEND_OFFSET_X {0.0, 18.00} (This value is already configured in the base firmware, but you might need to adjust it if your calibration print is not aligned left-right. This is the measurement in millimeters) #define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.00} (This value is already configured in the base firmware, but you might need to adjust it if your calibration print is not aligned front-back. This is the measurement in millimeters) You will need to print a LOT of calibration pieces before getting the proper settings. You don t need to wait for the whole print to complete at first, only 2-3 layers are enough. You will want to do a full print to inspect the final calibration when you think you are done. 9
At this point you should be able to print perfectly centered two colors or materials parts! Good job! 10