READING POSTCOLONIALISM ISSUE IN ORIFLAME S BOOKLET NO 8/ 01 AGUSTUS-31 AGUSTUS 2014

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1 READING POSTCOLONIALISM ISSUE IN ORIFLAME S BOOKLET NO 8/ 01 AGUSTUS-31 AGUSTUS 2014 Sri Utami Budi seribubudi@gmail.com Abstracs The effect of colonialism is frequently noticed in some aspect in today s life although Colonial period has been ended long time ago. Superiority, inferiority, and hybridity are some of the issues comes in relation to colonialism/ postcolonialism. This is a study which takes a leaflet published by Oriflame in order to advertise its product released in August 2014 as the object of study. Ketika Timur Bertemu dengan Barat was the tagline in this particular issue (no 8/ 01 Agustus-31 Agustus). As the phrase suggests, in this series Oriflame offers new products which combine the elements come from the west with the elements taken from the east. The elements of the east which famous for its uniqueness is combined with the main substances originated from the west. A hybrid product seems to be the promise of the innovation. Yet, the mixture between the elements taken from the two poles may fail its process when it inadvertently encourages superiority of one party instead of equality. Accordingly, this is the problem which is going to be discussed in this paper. The analysis will be conducted to know whether this product promoted in the leaflet is promoting the equality between the east and the west or meet its failure in the process. The data which is going to be analyzed are the qualitative data taken from the object of study. Postcolonialism is used to approach the case. The theory proposed by Edward Said in his Orientalism and Homi Bhaba s theory of hybridity will applied to analyze the data. Keywords: mixture, hybrid, west, east, superiority, inferiority Introduction The end of Colonialism era does not mean the end of domination and superiority of one state over the other. While in the colonial time, colonized fight against the control and domination of the colonizer, in the post colonial time All post-colonial societies are still subject in one way or another to overt or subtle forms of neo-colonial domination, and independence has not solved this problem (Aschroft, 2000, p.2). Consequently, there is always a continuing process of resistance and reconstruction. 804 ISBN Sri Utami Budi

2 This study takes advertising media as an object of analysis. Advertising including electronic and print out is a medium to give information or promote event or product. It, somehow, can be more than this. Advertising are able to form certain perception. Thus, advertising can be used for not only promoting the product but also changing or even creating a new perception. When one is able to form certain perception, it may signify that one has power to dominate or control the other. Accordingly, this research studies oriflame s advertisement in its booklet no 8/1-31 August 2014 which is used to promote its innovative product created by combining element taken from East with the element from the West. The analysis will also cover how the advertising may form customer perception. Which party benefited by the industrial domination id the last issue discussed in this paper. In conducting the research, first qualitative data in the forms of names and the information of the product, statements, and pictures are taken from the booklet. Data is, then, classified and analyzed used the theory of Hybrid and Orientalism. The last is drawing the conclusion. Discussion The concept of Postcolonialism deals with the effects of colonization on cultures and societies. The term postcolonialism suggest a historical period of after colonialism, after independence, or after imperialism. Thus, it refers to all characteristic of a society and its culture as a result of colonialism from the time of colonization to present (Sawant, 2000). The first, analysis in reading the booklet found the idea about hybridity. Hybridity, diaspora, ambivalence, and cross cultural exchange are some of results of colonialism. Hybrididy is a concept proposed by Homi K. Bhabha to call the characteristic of a culture or a cultural form produced by the interaction of two (or possibly more) separate parent cultures or forms. A Dictionary of Literary Terms and Literary Theory defines hibridity as a characteristic of culture or cultural forms produced by the interaction of two (or possibly more) separate parent cultures or forms (Cuddon, 2013, p.361). In other words, hybridity is a mixture from two different identities. Ania Loomba explains that Hybridity is also considered as a kind of political and cultural negotiation between the colonizer and the colonized or in Said s terms the West and the East (2005). Sri Utami Budi ISBN

3 In the booklet, Oriflame s products are promoted as an innovative product as a result of a mixture between the main element which comes from the west, and the element from the east. The adding of the element from the east to the product is considered as innovation as this has never been done. Originally all elements are associated to the west. This is regardless the consumers who are Asians. By saying the meeting of the east and the west, this product seems to give promise that both poles are equal. That the amount of the ingredient originated from the east and the west are in balance position. This is then lead to a sense that the products advertised in this booklet are hybrids a product produced by the interaction of two separate parent cultures or forms. By joining the west and the east this hybrid product also means simply cross cultural exchange. Hybrid gives notion of balance and equality of power relation it references. To refer to Homi K. Bhabha s idea of hybridity: It is significant that the productive capacities of this Third Space have a colonial or postcolonial provenance. For a willingness to descend into that alien territory may open the way to conceptualizing an international culture, based not on the exoticism of multiculturalism or the diversity of cultures, but on the inscription and articulation of culture s hybridity.(1994:38) This is supported by Ashcroft who stated that the term hybrid implies negating and neglecting the imbalance and inequality power relation it references (2000). So, in hybridity there is equality. Yet, when we look closely we see that it is the element or ingredient from the west are the main ingredient, thus they have the biggest portion. Only small portion is allocated to the east. The component from the east is added to the product as additional ingredient. In the other words, it is a complement. In fact, this complement can be substituted by other elements, such as the element from all over the word. As long as the major portion which is the main ingredient is allocated to be contained with the element from the west, the product would still the same. Even if the element from the east is taken, the product would still exist. Thus, the element from the east is added as a compliment, as a secondary element as it less important. However, the contradictory condition would not apply. While the main ingredient can stand alone without the additional element complementing, the opposite condition would 806 ISBN Sri Utami Budi

4 not work. The complementary element cannot stand alone. It will only exist or recognized in the complementary to the main element. It is recognized and accepted when there is the main component into which it is mixed. It also suggests that the east has weaker bargaining power as it should be attached to the main/ branded product to make it recognizable. The element from the east, such as cinnamon in Sun Zone Lotion Face and Body one of the name of the product, cannot stand alone to be called as the product face and body lotion cinnamon. but Accordingly the critical reading of the relationship of the east and the west seen in Oriflame s leaflet no 8/1 august 30 August through the point of view postcolonialism shows the inequality of the two regions. The mix between the element taken from the east and the west is a hybrid. It does create new product. It is an innovation by adding a new/ different element to the product, in addition to the genuine product. Yet, it shows dominance power in one side instead of equality of the both sides. Is it a strategy? Secondly, the analysis on the advertising finds that the notion of hybrid offered through its tagline, i.e. when the east meets the west, is a marketing strategy to persuade the customers who are Asians. To have approximately billion people living in the region, Asia is a potential target market for industry, including cosmetic industry. Thus, the producer will seek strategy to attract the customers. In order to sell the product and get a great profit they will fulfill target market s needs and desires. It is likely that adding the elements originated from the east, such as cinnamon, rice peptide, Liquorice, peach, and organic coconut oil, are intentionally done in order to engage with the customers. Those innovative products are made to be familiar to its target market by adding the component famous in the place of target market. This way, the customers would thing the product fit them as it comes from their region, so they will be proud of using the product and thus voluntarily buy them. Unfortunately, it is the producers whom the profit goes to. Combining the element taken from the place of the target market is the strategy to advertise their product. Once the target market are interested in and voluntarily buy the product, the producer will get the profit they actually Sri Utami Budi ISBN

5 want. Thus, while the costumers who are Asian driven to do what they want to buy the product, the greatest profit goes to its capitalists. The third point found in the analysis shows the construction of the standard of beauty based on European standard. Thinking can be constructed. The advertisement in this leaflet is a process by which Orient was, and continues to be, constructed in European thinking. (Ashcroft, 2000). There are ways the corporate deals with its Asian customers, through this serial of leaflet. The first is how to describe the east and the second is by making statement about it. First, they describe the beauty. It is a common thing to call the standard of beautiful for the east is exotic. This term exotic is a term means to describe beauty for Asian/ the easter/ the third world countries. The use of exotic in this leaflet therefore suggests an idea of Orientalism. In one part of the leaflet it is written: Ketika Timur Bertemu Barat Rias mata tegas seperti eye liner mata kucing dan bulu mata panjang dan lentik adalah warisan Mesir kuno (ancient), acara sosial, sihir, hingga spiritual (2014, p.10). In this dercription, the producer, that is Oriflame Sweden, describes the shape of the eyeliner applied by the Ancient Egypt and relate it to social, witchcraft, and mysticism. All of those three words bring the association of Egypt or East generally as not scientific. This perception in fact is an orientalist perpective. The second is by making statement about it. Ashcroft explains that statement made towards Orient can be used as a tool for dominating, restructuring, and having authority (2000, p.153). Statement, in fact, can be conveyed in form of visual image. The following two pictures are taken from booklet to analyze the case. 808 ISBN Sri Utami Budi

6 Picture 1. Oriflame Sweden no 8/ Agustus 2014, p.17. Picture 2. Oriflame Sweden no 8/ Agustus 2014, p.24 Both pictures show cultural appropriation. Oriflame is made in Sweden cosmetic product. The referred booklet is an advertising medium used to promote the product to its target market in Asia. In those pictures some features belong to Egypt and India, two regions in Asia, are borrowed to make cultural appropriations. The first picture shows a model who wears hat, outfit, and accessories (necklace) from Egypt. Pyramid is taken as the background of the picture. These are done intentionally to give the sense of Asia. That picture would lead the customer to associate it with the image of beautiful Cleopatra. The same thing happens in the second picture. The model in the second picture wears ring bracelet, earring, and saree which are traditional India. This is done for cultural appropriation, to adapt to Indian Culture. It also takes Taj Mahal, a world heritage build by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, as the background of the picture. This building is one of the most celebrated building structures and is considered as a symbol of India s rich history. These appropriations are done to approach to Asian customers so as to be more acceptable in the society of the target market. The first picture may lead the audience to feel Asia through the image of Cleopatra, and so does the second picture which brings the image of beautiful India woman. However, there is an idea imposed through this picture, i.e the Eurocentric standard of beauty. The closer look to the pictures will find that the image is made to set the standard Sri Utami Budi ISBN

7 of beauty based on European standard, in which beautiful is defined as to have white skin color. Through this advertisement standard of beauty is made very clear. It gives specific message as to what is beautiful and what is not. The customers who agree with this message unconsciously accept the imposed ideals of beauty based on European standard. This finding is strengthened by the usage of the pictures to promote the whitening cream. In one section of booklet, it is stated walaupun tidak mudah terbakar sinar matahari, kebanyaan kulit asia tetap mengalami kerusakan akibat sinar matahari tapi tambahkan tabir surya setelahnya yang mencerahkan kulit. This statement implies that the darker the color of the skin, the less beautiful the person is. And so, they need to use the product which contains whitening. By appreciating the good feature of Asian skin, which is uneasily damaged due to sunburn, somehow the producers encourage the customer to use their whitening product. This appeal is reinforced by putting the picture of the model who has white skin and blonde hair very Eurocentric. Through commercial means, the costumer s perception of beauty is changed into the idea that beautiful is having white/ bright skin like the model in the picture. In this way, statement can also be delivered through picture or visualization. This marketing strategy, in fact, shows that the West has power over the East that is the power to set a standard of beauty. The finding that one has power to control the other is in accordance with Edward said idea of the relation between the west and the east. Conclusion Oriflame through its innovative products promoted in its leaflet no 8/ 1-30 august does not really bring the idea of hybrid as the articulation of equality between the East and the West. In fact, it shows the domination and superiority of the west. It motivates the Asian customers to involuntarily use the hybrid product, yet it is the capitalist whom the profit goes to. Thus the prosperity of the colonizer (the capital owner). The east, on the other side, would still be exploited and dependable to the western. Can we call it as new imperialism? 810 ISBN Sri Utami Budi

8 References 4 th ELTLT CONFERENCE PROCEEDINGS Aschcroft, Bill, Gareth Griffifths, and Halen Tiffin. (2009). Post-colonial Studies: the Key Concepts. New York: Roultledge. A & E Television Networks, LLC. accessed on October 18 th, 2015 from Barker, Chris.(2000). Cultural Studies: Teori & Praktik. Yogyakarta: Kreasi Wacana. Bhabha, Homi K. (1994). The Location of Culture. London: Routledge. Cuddon, J.A. (2013). A Dictionary of Literary Terms and Literary Theory, fifth edition, West Sussex: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Loomba, Ania. (2005). Colonialism/ Postcolonialism. New York: Routledge. Nayar, Pramod K.(2006) Literary Theory Today. New Delhi:Asia Book Club.. Said, Edward. (1977). Orientalism. London: Penguin. Sawant, Shrikant B. (2012). Postcolonial Theory: Meaning and Significance. Proceedings of National Seminar on Postmodern Literary Theory and Literature, Nanded. Sekayi, Dia. (2003). Aesthetic Resistance to commercial Influences: The Impact of the Eurocentric Beauty Standard on Black College Women. Journal of Negro Education, 72,4, Ketika Timur Bertemu dengan Barat. (2014, Agustus). Oriflame Sweden, p Sri Utami Budi ISBN